First coined by Auguste Laurent and synthesized by Adolph Strecker and Nikolai Sokolov, glycolic acid has transformed from a laboratory discovery to a skincare powerhouse. This simple alpha hydroxy acid, initially derived from hippuric acid (a crystalline acid found in the urine of horses and other herbivores), would eventually revolutionize both chemical hair treatments and dermatological procedures worldwide.
As the smallest molecule in the alpha hydroxy acid family, glycolic acid possesses unique properties that allow it to penetrate skin deeply and effectively. Over time, scientists began to understand its exfoliating capabilities, noting how it could dissolve the intercellular bonds between dead skin cells, promoting cellular turnover and revealing fresher skin underneath.
The commercial journey of glycolic acid gained traction when dermatologists started incorporating it into chemical peels. Its popularity surged as beauty companies recognized its potential and formulated it into various skincare products. Simultaneously, the hair care industry discovered its effectiveness in hair straightening and relaxing formulations, particularly appealing to those seeking to alter naturally curly or textured hair.
Today, glycolic acid is sourced primarily from sugar cane, though it can also be derived from sugar beets and unripe grapes. Its evolution from a laboratory curiosity to a multi-billion dollar ingredient in the beauty and personal care industry represents one of the most significant transformations in cosmetic chemistry history, though this widespread adoption has not been without controversy and concerns about its safety in certain applications.
Early Applications and Commercial Uses
Soon after its discovery, glycolic acid found use as a building block in chemical experiments. Scientists recognized its ability to facilitate the creation of other chemicals, making it valuable in research and various industries.
In textile factories, glycolic acid proved useful for dyeing, printing patterns, and making fabrics more resistant to wrinkles. This demonstrated its practicality beyond laboratory settings.
The leather industry adopted glycolic acid for processing hides, as it helped remove minerals like calcium—resulting in softer, more workable leather.
Over time, the acid found further applications in the production of alum, chrome products, and eventually cosmetics and skincare. By the time it became popular in creams and lotions, glycolic acid had established itself as a versatile and essential ingredient in both industry and personal care products.
Chemistry and Mechanism of Action
Glycolic acid (C₂H₄O₃) is the simplest alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). Its small size lets it penetrate hair and skin more deeply than other AHAs. This creates both benefits and potential risks, especially when used in hair relaxers.
Structure and Properties
Glycolic acid has a small molecular size and high water solubility. It works best at pH levels between 3-4, where it becomes active but isn't too harsh.
Action on Hair
When applied to hair, glycolic acid breaks down the bonds that create curls. Unlike lye relaxers, it targets hydrogen bonds, but still causes permanent changes that only grow out with new hair.
Effect on Skin
In skincare, glycolic acid dissolves the "glue" holding dead skin cells together. Its small molecular structure allows for deeper penetration into the skin, accelerating cell turnover and skin renewal.
Safety Considerations
At higher concentrations (above 10%) or lower pH (below 3.0), glycolic acid becomes stronger but riskier. This is especially concerning when used on children's sensitive scalps.
The effectiveness of glycolic acid depends on both its concentration and pH level. Higher strength products provide more dramatic results but come with increased risk of irritation and chemical burns.
Glycolic Acid in Hair Care and Relaxers
How It Works
Glycolic acid weakens hair's protein structure by breaking disulfide bonds, allowing curls to be mechanically straightened.
Product Evolution
Initially considered an alternative to harsh lye relaxers, glycolic acid formulations have been marketed as "gentler" options, though they still cause permanent chemical changes to hair structure.
Target Market
Often positioned for those with sensitive scalps, including children, despite limited research on long-term safety for younger populations.
Effects on Children's Health
Acute Reactions
Scalp burns, chemical irritation, and allergic reactions in children exposed to chemical hair relaxers, particularly when products are misused or left on too long.
Hair Damage
Premature hair breakage, thinning, and traction alopecia in children with repeated relaxer use, especially when combined with tight hairstyles.
Long-Term Concerns
Emerging research suggests possible connections between early chemical relaxer use and endocrine disruption, though more longitudinal studies are needed to establish definitive links.
"All 121 Tested Relaxers"
NIH Studies on Chemical Hair Treatments
The National Institutes of Health has published research addressing concerns about chemical hair straighteners, including those containing glycolic acid. Studies found potential links between early-age chemical relaxer use and increased risk of early puberty onset.
Dermatology Research
A dermatologist in this 2022 article cautions mothers against applying chemical relaxers to children's hair, warning that it can cause serious scalp damage, burns, and long-term hair and skin issues.
University of Cape Town
Scientists from the Hair and Skin Research Laboratory at the University of Cape Town, South Africa have published a study in the South African Medical Journal.
According to the paper, all commercially sold hair relaxers they tested, including those advertised for children, were found to be at pH levels that are corrosive to skin. All 121 tested relaxers (including 54% that were international brands) had a pH greater than 11.5.
Take Action: Protecting Our Daughters From Harmful Hair Relaxers
Now that you understand the risks of glycolic acid in hair relaxers, will you share this information?
Many parents remain unaware of these dangers. Your voice can help prevent potential long-term health effects.
Share With Family
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Community Discussion
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